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trikebldr |
Return to RETURN EXPEDITION |
Lead | |
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Gone trikin'!
Last Edited By: trikebldr 08/12/08 12:55:38.
Edited 2 times.
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buggunner |
Re: Return to RETURN EXPEDITION | ||
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Bruce
Thanks for the update . I am curious what is the ground clearance with the 16" wheels ? |
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trikebldr |
Re: Return to RETURN EXPEDITION | ||
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Gone trikin'!
Last Edited By: trikebldr
08/12/08 12:56:12.
Edited 1 times.
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4MILECREEK |
EXPEDITION SHIMMY | ||
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Like advised I talked to Big Cat and returned my Expedition to my dealer for new star nuts on the king pins. Several spokes were thghtened and then on my first ride the high speed and curve shimmy seemed to disappear. Was elated until the Expedition started to shimmy at low speeds on rough asphalt. No shimmy with a death grip on bars but was prevelent with a light grip and no grip was beyond my desire to experence. The Expedition is in the shop now getting new gold compression rings. Will inform you if this helps. Big cat has been very responsive but my confidence level is not elevated by other owners having similar problems
Please continue to share your concerns Dave |
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ElSobrante |
Re: EXPEDITION SHIMMY | ||
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From Paulo's reply to "Returning Expedition" in the General Discussion:
The main points that could make the Expedition shimmy and that could be checked by your Catrike dealer are: -Wheel out of true, especially out of round and with loose spokes -Bumps on tires (poor mass distribution) -A very big or soft tire. The Big Apple will pronounce shimmy. -Headsets bearings that are not pre-loaded. We suggest as per our manual, a pre-load of 70in-lb -Star nut not properly set inside the fork. A 1-1/8 star nut will also fit in the fork and hold better -Excessive toe-it or lack of toe. For some riders 1/16" toe out might work better -Low tire pressure -Keep at least one of the hands on the handle bars at all time We really like to have the dealer involved, since it is easier for us to address those issues with a dealer and make sure it is being done correctly. You should also free to call us anytime at 407-905-0626 or e-mail us at info@catrike.com and we will respond immediately. Our hope and goal is to see 100% of the Catrike owners totally satisfied with their machines. As you've seen with your wheel-swap experiment, some Expeditions behave better with smaller wheels, possibly due to an incorrect spindle (from UKTom). If you want to fix this yourselves, you've probably found the answer. I would still contact Big Cat HPV with your findings and ask for a fix. That's what "totally satisfied" means. |
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trikebldr |
Re: EXPEDITION SHIMMY | ||
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Gone trikin'!
Last Edited By: trikebldr
08/12/08 12:56:34.
Edited 1 times.
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trikebldr |
Re: Return to RETURN EXPEDITION | ||
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Gone trikin'!
Last Edited By: trikebldr
08/12/08 12:56:58.
Edited 1 times.
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fasttour |
a few questions | ||
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If you don't have brake steer with the 349's, what sort of brake steering response do you have with the 406's? Do the wheels tend to twist when you apply one brake?
I assume that a 355 is 6mm larger than a 349, and thus no where near 18 inches unless you have big apples. but I've never seen them side by side, so how big is the rim size difference? And in your case with the tires on both what is the total difference? I'm very curious where the center line of the kingpin points relative to the centerline of the 20 inch wheel. Does it intersect the ground at the centerline, or well outside of it? Sorry no solutions, I just want to learn more. |
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trikebldr |
Re: a few questions | ||
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Gone trikin'!
Last Edited By: trikebldr
08/12/08 12:57:21.
Edited 1 times.
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fasttour |
Re: a few questions | ||
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Thanks Bruce,
My question about 355's was motivated by the goal of putting the correct sized wheels back on my trike, I thought that 349's and 355's were closer in size, and that I could just get 349's from catrike since 355's don't come on their current models. That and I was thinking of scorchers. If the scorcher's don't bring the axel up to 355 levels, I'd better look for 355's. Yes, If the kingpin axis contact point is at or near the centerline for 406 wheels, it should be well inside the tire contact on 349's and I would expect a strong tendency for steering to twist and pull to the side you brake on. Based on my experience with shimmy, I thought the kingpin might point further outside on the expedition 406, and thus the 349 brings it inward, but not so much as to cause much leverage around the axis when braking. But in that case I think twisting while braking with the 406 would occur. ** just reread your first post and you say that shimmy and brake steer returned when you used 18 inch wheels. I'm not sure how you define brake steer in this case, but you imply that it returned to a condition that you also experience with the 406 wheels.** But you did say there was a big improvement in steering in general with the smaller wheels. If you willl permit me to speculate a moment, from your report and my prejudice I assumed that the expedition has NSR steering and the kingpins pointed a bit too far to the outside of the wheels. If this is the case, one characteristic of this geometry that I have not seen discussed and that takes a lot of imagination to visualize, is that correcting forces due to trail in turns will be different for each wheel. In pure center point steering, the contact patch of the tire is directly behind the axis intercept point on the ground. When you turn the wheel, the axis ground intercept is rotated to the side the same distance for each wheel, and a centering force vector develops between the angle of the wheel and the direction of travel. It is the same for each wheel. But in NSR where both kingpin axies point forward and to the outside, a right turn will move the right kingpin axis further to the right away from the velocity vector thru the tire patch, while the left side kingpin axis will move toward the centerline of the trike and closer to the line of the forward motion of the trike thru the center of the left tire patch. A little hard to visualize, but this must put different correcting forces on each wheel. What I visualize is the left axis point dragging a scrubbing tire along behind it, while the right wheel has a very strong centering force on it. Net effect may not be a lot different, but this can't feel as good as centerpoint steering. If the 349's did bring the kingpin intercepts closer to center point, that may help explain better steering response. Additionally, and perhaps a larger contributer, smaller wheels will reduce the castor and trail, which reduces the centering force on the wheels in turns. This may be felt as better steering, or at least a lighter touch. Very interesting, I hope you guys get to the bottom of it with a clean solution. Michel and I plan to make a day of it exploring bike trails she has never been on. We are hoping the remaining particulate matter in the air disperses more over the next two days, because the areas we plan to ride border on the Santiago fire area of Orange County Ca. If not, we can always ride up the beach. Thanks, Jim |
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rzexpedition |
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Well, my Expe has a severe shimmy when I hit a patch of bad road with my hands off the bars. I haven't even mentioned this to my LBS as it just seems like
a big headache for them and for me. I'm not even sure if they know of it and if I mention it, then there is the issue of trying to bring them up to speed
on it, then demonstrating it, etc. I don't ride a lot with no hands on the bars, but I would rather have no shimmy.
RZ
Rider of BIGRED (CTE#170)
Last Edited By: rzexpedition
05/18/08 13:22:34.
Edited 1 times.
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SpinninnGrinnin |
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Please delete "doubled" entry site did not show entry. Thanks!
Last Edited By: SpinninnGrinnin
05/18/08 18:06:10.
Edited 1 times.
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SpinninnGrinnin |
Not-Good "Vibrations" | ||
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I've been "dropping in" on this topic from time to time. Looks like what's happening , in engineering terms, is a "harmonic
imbalance" which is "amplified" under certain conditions. Somewhere in the steering/suspension (or what passes for suspension) on these trikes is a component with an elevated "response". Culprits range from tires, to tire inflaflation, to king pins, tie rods...all the way back to handgrips and the material used to cover them. Somewhere there is a "dampening" factor that is unable to quell the input forces. So, what I'd be looking for is what are the common-denominators amongest the Expeditions (or other Catrikes) that have exhibited this type of response to road/speed condtions. That may help to focus on the "culprit/s".
Last Edited By: SpinninnGrinnin
05/20/08 05:03:18.
Edited 1 times.
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ElSobrante |
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rzexpedition wrote: Your expectations are too high. All wheeled cycles are going to generate shimmy when they hit a patch of bad road with nothing controlling the steering. Even a cycle with mechanically dampened steering will be disturbed briefly, but when Paulo offered the public a trike with dampened steering (the '04 models with teflon bushings) the public asked for headsets. Silly rabbits. |
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PhattKatt |
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Spinnin... you left out design error
In the other thread I posed the possibility that the Ackermann compensation is *overdone*. I know overcompensating for Ackermann will cause a death wobbly if the rider has a long x-seam and is well over 200 lbs in a trike that has relatively upright seating... read: forward CG. And I agree... we are talking two phenomena; one easily dampened by holding onto the steering arms... and one that increases with speed even with hands on bars. I've experienced the lader on an '07 test trike. I've also experienced this in my testing of the ABTT.
http://phattkatt.blogspot.com
Last Edited By: PhattKatt
05/18/08 18:45:49.
Edited 1 times.
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rzexpedition |
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ElSobrante wrote: So you're going to challenge me to get videos where I cover the same piece of road on my Expe and my GT5 to see just how the shake increases even after I pass beyond the rough bit of road? Would this really make you happy? We can put to rest whether this is a shimmy or just some road-induced vibrations in the steer bars.
RZ
Rider of BIGRED (CTE#170) |
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Bronco Billy |
Denial is a Big River.......... | ||
rzexpedition wrote:
When You Pedal Your Cat
Does It Return The Favor..... CTT279 |
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ElSobrante |
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rzexpedition.
You hardly have to ask if video would make me happy. It would make me deliriously happy. But you may be under the impression that I'm challenging your claim of shimmy and nothing could be further from the truth. I believe all headset-equipped trikes may shimmy until proven otherwise. Paulo advises all later model Catrike owners to keep a hand on the steering. The question is how much do they shimmy and why, and I would love to see video if possible. Proof in the pudding. |
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PhattKatt |
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Well... just to remove the assertion that *all* trikes shimmy as I've stated myself, please read my other post as well...
Because, yes, today I test rode an '06 Road... boom extended and stock to the bone. Remember the '07 Expedition I tried? Me... 6'2" 48" x-seam and 240lbs: The '06 Road: NO SHIMMY... whatever I tried. Rock solid! http://catrike.yuku.com/topic/2240?page=2
http://phattkatt.blogspot.com
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Hipster |
For Expedition Owners with S/S/W | ||
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PhattKatt & Trikebldr,
Background: I purchased CTR918 in the fall of 2007 &
CTE137 this spring.
The Expedition has a lot of give in its long chain stays. You can see this by placing your hand on top of the
rear tire & pushing perpendicular to the wheel. I do not know if this contributes to the issue or not. When observed climbing from the rear, I have been
told that there is a lot of swaying going on at the rear of the Expedition. (Hold the jokes please!)
For the record: I am near the weight limit of a Catrike
- I have a 42" X-seam & a looong body - I have run several different sizes & brands of tires, in new or like new condition - My wheels are tight
& trued - I have removed, reworked & sharpened the star nuts to enable properly preloaded headsets. I found that changing the toe from a toe-in of 1/16
to an un-weighted toe-out of 1/8", works better for me.
Do I wish I were lighter? Yes & I am working hard on that. Do I wish my Expedition was as rock solid as my Road? Yes again. (Perhaps it could use a bit larger tubing &/or another stiffening crossbar in the rear.) Do I wish the Expo was as shimmy free as my Road? Of course! Do I wish I could run fat grippy tires, when & where needed? Yeah. (I am working on a way to do that involving a 24" in the rear & 16s in front.) Should Cats come with wider rims as an option? Probably. (I am going to build/or have built, new front wheels with wider rims & already have bullet proof wide rim 26" MTB wheels for the rear.) Will I continue to use the Expedition CTE137 as a test bed? YES! Am I concerned about voiding the warranty? Not really. (I can afford to live with the consequences of my actions.) Will I ever sell my CTE137 to an unsuspecting customer - H*LL NO! (I would only ever part with it under full disclosure; and then only with a suitable big wheeled replacement at hand!) Will I continue to ride the bejeezes out of it? YES YES YES
Gregory
Last Edited By: Hipster
05/21/08 19:33:47.
Edited 2 times.
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PhattKatt |
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Thanks for the update, Gregory... and I can certainly point you to a simple way to test my theory with minimal risk, non-destructive to the Exp, and without
spending a wad of cash.
All you need is a flat steel piece about 3/32 to 1/8" thick. Place is *under* the "steering arm" [part welded to the kingpin that the rod end is mounted to] Leave about 5/8" sticking out past the steering arm [toward the back] You will use the two holes in the steering arm to mount the plate... a 5/16" screw and maybe a 1/4", 5mm (?) in the small hole {the lader is for safety so the plate doesn't twist } You set these up for both sides... and have your tie rod set correctly for the normal condition. Now mark the location on the plates where your tie rod meets the *normal* condition. Drill 5/16" holes 1/8" outside the normal condition on each plate. Install your tie rod to the new holes. Use spacers if you need some clearance. You have effective lengthened the tie rod by just over 1/4" [*over* because you also moved it backwards... see diagram] Re-set you toe adjustment Go for test ride. The trike *will* feel different. This 1/8" adjustment should be more than you need, but will really spell out if this is what will need to be done. If this works [and I'm sure it will], you can start moving back to center until the steering feels like you want it to. We can talk more when you reach this stage. Alternatively you can distructively slot the hole in your steering arm, but I don't recommend going that route. Not to worry... my Actionbent was 1-1/8" to long on each side and it rode fine... just a lot of extra scrub in the corners. The point of all this is that a little bit makes a big difference.
http://phattkatt.blogspot.com
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